Yosemite National Park Guide for First Timers

Yosemite National Park is a beloved area for many Californians, and it’s easy to see why! The park has beautiful waterfalls, deep valleys, and dramatic granite formations. For a first-timer, it can be a little overwhelming but I’ve rounded up a quick guide below

When to Go to Yosemite National Park

Yosemite is great year-round, but summer between May – September is the most accessible time of year. Two main roads in the park, Tioga Road and Glacier Point Road, typically don’t open until May/June (see this link for historical opening dates).

It is important to note that summer is really hot in Yosemite, especially when the trail is unshaded. The temperature might read 75 degrees but with the elevation and direct sunlight, I’ve seen many hikers get in trouble on a trail. (In fact rangers were called out to Mist Trail July 7 2020). Wear proper sun protection clothing and bring plenty of water (0.5L every hour).

Of course, summer also means that there will be crowds, permits will be hard to get, and all the other complications with high demand… which leads me to the next section

Logistics for a Fun Yosemite Trip

Planning for Yosemite is probably one of the most tiring tasks I’ve ever had to do for the outdoors, but it is worth it! The first thing you need to decide is if you want to get a wilderness permit for backcountry camping, make a reservation at a campground, or choose an Airbnb/Hotel and do day hikes.

Wilderness Permits: I’ve been trying to get a wilderness permit since 2015 and am 0 for 20+ attempts. I’m sure people are successful without cheating (likely they go on the weekdays and/or choose a less popular trail) but I personally am still unsuccessful for 3 different trailheads! The Yosemite website has a lot of good information here on how to get a permit.

If you want to read more about the impact of bots on camping (especially in Northern California), there are good articles here, here, and here.

Campground: Your next option is to reserve a campground. Reservations are available up to five months in advance, on the 15th of each month at 7AM PT…but even the official website notes: “campgrounds requiring reservations are usually full from around April through September. “ Told ya Yosemite is in high demand 🙂 Set your alarms and visit the NPS website for more info, here.

Airbnb/Hotel: Ok your last option is probably also your easiest chance to go to Yosemite. There are some good Airbnb’s in Yosemite West (~30 min drive from the Valley) as well as a few hotels to stay at. For your first visit, staying in the Valley will be most convenient as many of the big highlights start from there.

If you are from the area, you can always do a day hike and drive from the SF Bay Area – just don’t fall asleep on the road back! Getting to Yosemite definitely requires some planning and work which may be tough if you’re a more spontaneous traveler, but I promise it’s worth it.

One more thing to note is that Yosemite, like most National Parks, does not have dog friendly trails. Dogs are only allowed in campgrounds, paved roads, and developed areas like the Village. Even though it is not dog friendly, you will see many visitors come with their cute pups and just hang around the Village or main vista points.

What to Pack for Yosemite

Packing in the summer is pretty easy. The nights get down to around 50 degrees and it gets super hot during the day with the direct sunlight. You’ll want to pack your summer hiking gear and some jackets if you plan on staying up for sunset / waking up for sunrise.

These are some of my favorites for day hiking:

• Osprey 36L Sirrus Pack and rain cover: 36L may be a little bigger than you need but I love how versatile the size is. I don’t really feel the additional weight either.
• Topo Designs Mountain Pack (similar here): If you want a less technical, more stylish bag – Topo Designs is for you!
• Leki Corklite Trekking Poles: Although Yosemite has switchbacks, some of the descent can be steep and strain your knees. I always recommend bringing poles and these ones have held up for over 7 years for me!
• Hoka One One shoes: Those who follow me know that I ditched my hiking boots a couple of years ago. Shoes are very personal and you should definitely wear what is best for you, but I love having a lighter shoe with cushion on the bottom so my feet don’t hurt. Hoka One Ones are perfect!
• MSR Dromlite 2L: My go-to drom bag since 2013. I haven’t had to replace it yet!

best yosemite national park hikes

Looking for the best hikes in Yosemite National Park? This was probably the hardest decision for me because there are so many fun hikes and we only had 48 hours! We were looking for a combination of easy hikes in Yosemite and other hikes that would be a little more difficult. In the end we hiked Inspiration Point, Upper Yosemite Falls, and Four Mile Trail, but here is a more holistic list of hikes leaving from the Valley:

• Bridal Veil Fall Trail (Closed July 2020): 0.5 mi, fairly flat. This would be one of the best short hikes in Yosemite but the trailhead was unfortunately under construction so we couldn’t go
• Inspiration Point: 2.6 mi, 990 ft elevation gain. Just a small ways up Inspiration Point gives you the best view of the famous Tunnel View viewpoint. Inspiration Point itself isn’t very beautiful as the view is blocked by trees, but this is a “the journey is better than the destination” hike. This would be one of the best places for sunrise in Yosemite
• Vernal Falls: Typically a 3.5 mile, 1300 ft elevation gain hike that takes many hikers 3 hours. Because of COVID, Yosemite NPS has put some restrictions on the trails you can take which is making it a longer 6.5 mile hike. Please check their website for the latest.
• Sentinel Dome and Taft Point: 5.1 miles, 1100 ft elevation gain. If you don’t have time for the full loop, you can also just go directly to Taft Point which is an easy 45 min round-trip walk. Taft Point is one of the best places to photograph the sunset in Yosemite! But please be careful – do not go over the railings or get too close to the edge for a photo opp.
• Upper Yosemite Falls Trail: 8.2 miles, 3000 ft elevation gain. It took us 4.5 hours round trip because of the uneven footing. Because you want high water levels, this is one of the best Yosemite hikes in April, although early summer in May and June are great too. Note that many hikers believe the NPS’ mileage estimate to be off – the trail is really closer to 8.5 miles.
• Four Mile Trail to Glacier Point: 9.0 miles, 3300 ft elevation gain. Took us close to 4 hours. This is one of Yosemite’s famous hikes as it ends at the spectacular Glacier Point, a famous spot for sunset photos and view of Half Dome. Currently, it is a there-and-back trail because the shuttles are not open in 2020 for COVID19.

Other Activities in Yosemite

There are a lot of other non-hiking, family friendly activities in Yosemite you can do in the area as well! Vista points, strolling around the picnic grounds, and even kayaking in the river. Here are some highlights:

• View Three Brothers: Viewpoint along the Merced River of the lesser famous but just as beautiful Three Brothers. You can picnic nearby or just dip your feet in the river
• El Capitan Meadow: Views of the famous El Capitan. If you look closely (bring binoculars) you can see climbers!
• Valley View: Peaceful view of the valley. Most people drive into the lot, stop for a couple of minutes and leave, but we decided to have a relaxing morning here. Note that this is on the one-way road leaving Yosemite Valley
• Tunnel View: A famous view of El Capitan. There is a large carpark here and most tourists will only stay at the carpark, but the best view is actually if you hike 0.3 mi up Inspiration Point 🙂
• Sentinel Bridge: Another good view of Half Dome. Park at the lot nearby and walk back towards the bridge.
• Glacier Point: Probably the most famous view of Half Dome! You can hike via Four Mile Trail or drive up to Glacier Point. We ended up going there twice during our trip because we wanted to hike it and see it at sunset. Watch out for crowds at sunset though.
• Swimming, Rafting: Swimming is allowed in most bodies of water in Yosemite, which makes it a great way to cool off after a hot hike. Kayak and raft rentals are closed because of COVID19, but you can bring your own and float along Merced River. How fun!

Other Common Questions

Where should I go for sunrise? Sunset?

In my opinion sunset is the prettiest time in Yosemite Valley. Because of the position of the sun, sunrise isn’t as colorful and then can be quite harsh really quickly after the sun peaks out.

• Sunrise: Again, don’t really recommend it but if you’re trying to get in good views in a short amount of time, Valley View and Sentinel Bridge are your best bets. The best thing about waking up at sunrise in Yosemite is starting on busy trails early!
• Sunset: Taft Point, Glacier Point, Tunnel View, Sentinel Bridge

What food options are there?

Ugh. Yosemite unfortunately has really terrible food. I’ve generally had good experiences with food around National Parks, but Yosemite is not it. Aramark serves Yosemite and they have a really terrible history, including food poisoning and a norovirus outbreak in Jan 2020.

If you must eat out, Degnan’s Kitchen is your best bet. Otherwise buy groceries beforehand and cook. The Village Store has some good produce, meat, and snack options as well if you want to buy closer to the park.

Where is the nearest gas station?

Running out of gas is definitely possible in Yosemite. It takes almost 30 minutes to get around to Yosemite West and the different trailheads if you’re moving around to different destinations. Unfortunately there is no gas available in the immediate Valley area and you have to drive outside to get gas from Wawona, Crane Flat, or El Portal.

• Wawoma will take you 45 min round trip if you’re staying in Yosemite West
• Crane Flat will take you 1 hour roundtrip from Yosemite Village
• El Portal will also take you about 1 hour roundtrip from Yosemite Village

How long should I spend in Yosemite?

If it’s your first time here, you should try to spend at least 3 days. There is a lot to see and as you can tell it’s not the most convenient layout. Plus, it’s tough with the permits and planning so you definitely want to make use of all your prep work!

If you can spend even more days in Yosemite, you can explore the other beautiful areas outside of the Valley, and maybe even go on a backpacking trip.

Have you been to Yosemite before? What was your favorite part?

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