The Laugavegur Trail is one of the coolest packing trips in Iceland and in the world! Planning this trip can be a little tricky because you need to organize transportation, think about your overnight, and deal with the weather.
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What is the Laugavegur Trail
The Laugavegur Trail in Iceland (also known as the Laugavegurinn) is a popular hiking route in the highlands of Iceland. It runs from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk, a distance of approximately 55 kilometers (34 miles), and is typically completed in four to six days (although as an avid hiker, I would advocate completing the trek in 2 or 3 days).
The route passes through some of Iceland’s most breathtaking landscapes, including colorful rhyolite mountains, hot springs, and glacial rivers. It is considered one of the best long-distance hikes in Europe and attracts thousands of hikers each year.
When should you hike the Laugavegur Trail?
The Laugavegur Trail is usually hiked in the summer months, from June to September, when the weather is the most stable. However, the trail can also be hiked in the shoulder seasons (May and October) with the proper preparation and gear.
Hikers should be in good physical condition and properly equipped for the challenging and varied terrain, as well as the potential for changing weather conditions. If you are not an experienced hiker, it is recommended to hire a guide or join a guided group for the hike, as the route can be difficult to follow at times and there are no facilities along the way.
There unfortunately have been Laugavegur Trail deaths, and mostly all due to weather and being trapped in a storm. But that is not to scare you. The trail has become a lot more mainstream over recent years. Make sure you are prepared for this hike by asking about the weather at the huts before you leave, and packing all the essential gear you would need in case you do get trapped.
Planning Your Self-Guided Tour to the Laugavegur Trail
There is quite a bit of planning you will need to do before you head to the Laugavegur Trail in Iceland. It’s a multi-day trek, so it’s best to plan at least a couple of months in advance.
1. Decide if you want to stay in Laugavegur trail huts or tents.
Tents are more economical, and that was what I originally planned on doing. One of our group members convinced us to stay in huts, and boy was I glad. The campers looked absolutely miserable. Wet and 60 mph winds for 4 days is not for everyone and every tent. I’ve enjoyed a few rainy cold days before, but it’s much more difficult when you can see warm hikers in the huts adjacent to your campsite. A few campers ended up coming inside and paying for the huts, if they were lucky enough to get a spot.
If you are going with the hut option, you can book huts through the official FI Association.
2. Decide on your route.
The most common route is starting at Landmannalaugar and going south to Thorsmork (Þórsmörk). There are plenty of hikes to do starting at each of the terminus’ if you want to spend a few extra days there.
One of the most common questions I get asked is – how many days do you need for the Laugavegur Trail? Many people take 2-4 days to complete it. Although 4 days is the generally recommended, time, it is very possible for folks who have a better fitness level to do this hike in 2 days.
The hike is typically broken down like this:
Day 1: Landmannalaugar – Hrafntinnusker: 7.5mi
Day 2: Hrafntinnusker – Álftavatn: 7.5mi
Day 3: Álftavatn – Emstrur (Botnar): 9.3mi
Day 4: Emstrur (Botnar) – Þórsmörk: 9.3mi
but these routes can be condensed into longer hiking days on the Laugavegur Trek if you wish.
3. Laugavegur Trail Packing List
In order to go on the Laugavegur hike, you will need to make sure you pack everything you need. Although there are stores in Iceland, the price is definitely more expensive. If you don’t have the gear you need, buy it in advance from REI, EMS, or Backcountry.com . You can rent poles, tents, rain jackets, and a GPS from Gangleri Outfitters in Reykjavik.
This is what I packed. Italicized items are things I wish I packed.
- Osprey Xena 70 Pack
Footwear + Bottom Layer
- Pair of Chacos sandals
- My go-to hiking Salomon hiking boots
- 5 pairs of Smartwool socks
- NOLS windpants (not waterproof but quick dry)
- Actual rain pants (Update: I now own the Arcteryx Beta Pant and HIGHLY recommend them!)
- OutdoorResearch gaiters and Kahtoola microspikes (spikes never used)
Accessories
- Patagonia hat and Buff headband
- Swimsuit for the hot springs (never used)
- Windbreaker gloves
- Rented hiking poles and GPS, although I now own these awesome LEKI poles and Garmin GPS
- Survival Kit and Emergency gear (DEFINITELY want an emergency blanket)
- GoPro Hero 4 (Link to the 7 here)
- MSR Dromlite (ended up switching it up for a 1L bottle)
- Utensils (never used)
- For more Related stuff check also sethoxreview
- Marmot Sleeping Bag
- Lots of freeze-dried food and bars from the U.S. to avoid $$ Icelandic prices
- Fresh produce and food
- Cash!!! (More on this later…)
Tops + Layers
- Patagonia down jacket
- 2 Icebreaker Merino Wool mid-layers
- The North Face rain jacket
- 2 Icebreaker shirts
4. Figure out transportation logistics for the Laugavegur hiking
Luggage storage: We stayed in Reykjavik the night before and utilized luggage storage at the domestic airport. There aren’t that many lockers though. We were lucky to grab the last one. If we couldn’t grab the last one, we would’ve been in some trouble. Go here to read more about luggage storage: http://www.luggagelockers.is/faq.html
Transportation: If you are taking the bus to Landmannalaugar, make sure you get your tickets at the BSI Bus Terminal. Speaking of, how are you getting the BSI terminal? There aren’t that many taxi stands if you’re staying in an Airbnb. If you don’t have an international calling, you might want to set something up before you leave.
FYI: If you don’t feel like going through detailed logistics and planning, the Laugavegur trail can also be done through a tour company. They take care of transportation, luggage storage, food supplies, leading the way, accommodation, etc. One of the companies specializing in the Laugavegur trail is Trek Iceland. They have been in business a long time and have a lot of experience.
Hiking Itinerary for the Laugavegur Trail in Iceland
Day 1: Landmannalaugar – Álftavatn(15 miles total)
Start Time: 12:37PM
Arrived at the first hut: 3:18PM
Arrived at the second hut: 7:47PM
You will be combining two sections of your hike for day 1, 7.5 miles from Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker, and the second section from Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn.
The bus from Reykjavik leaves at 8AM from the BSI Bus Terminal. We got there around 7:45AM to get seats together. The bus stops twice: once around 10AM at a waterfall, and again at 11AM at a hotel with FOOD. I didn’t bring cash, because who brings cash to a hike? Big mistake. There were ice cream bars, coffee, and other goods. I had to borrow money from a friend for my Magnum bar.
Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker
Finally, at noon, you arrive for hiking Landmannalaugar. A hut warden hops on and gives you a short introduction of the trek. The hike starts off by the only swimmable hot springs of the trek. We chose not to go in, but plenty of others did! We were eager to start on the Landmannalaugar trail while the sun was shining.
Note: If you want to stay longer, there are plenty of trails that leave from around Landmannalaugar. You can find a Landmannalaugar map here.
For the Landmannalaugar hike portion, you will continue through beautiful rhyolite canyons. The trail is marked by red or yellow stakes. In the first 2 miles, you will see a lot of other tourists around. We winded up and down through canyons, past geothermal springs, and up volcanic rock. The first section of the hike flew by. At 2/3 point, we ran into large patches of snow. We were ok bare booting it although it was tricky at times. Soon enough the hut surprised us. We thought we had another hour of hiking! There were 2 water-refillable streams that I can recall in the first section. Carrying capacity of 1L was plenty.
When we got to the hut, we passed two South-North hikers who suggested that we continue on. The weather was absolutely perfect for hiking (50s, partly cloudy) – something really rare for Iceland. We talked to the hut warden who managed to squeeze us into the next hut. So, we pushed our itinerary one day ahead. Onward!
Hrafntinnusker – Álftavatn
The rhyolite canyons quickly became dark palagonite mountains, again covered with snow. There were some smaller stream crossings here. This section of the hike was absolutely beautiful and I was happy we did it with the sun. Most of this section is descent, although there is some up and down in the beginning.
You will see a distinct change from dark ground to beautiful green mountains (yes with snow patches). At that point, there is a steep descent that should be taken with care. Poles were particularly helpful here. After the descent, we slugged up through what seemed like glue but was probably a combination of geothermal minerals and mud. Best to have your boots tight or you might lose them here! Off into the distance, you can see the next hut to the left of a large lake.
About 2 miles before the hut, you will reach your first major river crossing. There is a side trail that leads to nowhere, so beware. As of mid August 2015, there was a giant rock arrow pointing you to the right direction. We chose a wide section of the river, changed shoes, and marched across. After we dried off, we hurried off to the hut ready for dinner. You will see a 2.3km sign for the hut before you finish the day on a wide car-accessible road.
The hut itself was much better than I thought it would be! However, showers cost 500ISK. They did not mention this anywhere in our “detailed” itinerary and voucher. I was unaware of this and again regretted my decision to not bring cash (mainly because I carried soap and shampoo, the extra weight that I really didn’t need). There are tons of pots, pans, knives, cutting boards, etc. in the kitchen. I felt a bit foolish eating my freeze-dried food as a Mother-Daughter duo prepared a gourmet salmon risotto. Bring fresh food! It will hold for 2 days, I promise. The sleeping area is heated, so you don’t need as thick of a sleeping bag if you choose the hut option. As with most of the Scandinavian countries, there is a strict no-shoe policy indoors. A policy I wish AMC huts would have.
Yes, there are garbage cans and flush toilets at this hut.
[Update:] Volcano Huts has just informed me that they’ve opened a restaurant at Alftavatn! You can get breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks and drinks. You can also stock up for the rest of your hike. So yes bring some fresh food and don’t waste your money and stomach on that freeze-dried stuff 🙂
Day 2: Álftavatn – Hvanngil (2 mi)
Start Time: 8:37AM
Arrived at the Hut: 9:30AM
Hvanngil, what? The next day we had a 4km hike to our next hut, Hvanngill. Because we had pushed our itinerary one day forward, we couldn’t secure a reservation at the next hut in Botnar. I would highly recommend folks skip Hvanngil and stay in Botnar. We didn’t bring a tent, unfortunately, but I’m not sure we would’ve camped anyway. The campers were soaked from the Icelandic rain and didn’t look too happy.
There was one river crossing about mid-calf deep in this section. The cfs wasn’t that high, and we were able to cross without problems using hiking poles.
They say this hut is usually empty because it’s in an awkward location, but my theory is that it’s empty because the accommodation logistics are awful and the hut wardens are the least friendly. Compared to last night’s hut which housed 10 people in 500 sq ft, this hut housed 20 people in 200 sq ft. We were piled on top of strangers who quickly became friends (Hi! Sorry for stepping over your head, I’m just trying to go outside).
Note to readers: Do not stay at the Hvanngil hut if you can avoid it!
Yes, there are garbage cans and flush toilets at this hut.
Day 3: Hvanngil – Emstrur/Botnar (21mi)
Start Time: 7:34AM
Arrived at the first hut : 10:13AM
Arrived at the second hut: 4:24PM
On your final day, you will be hiking from Hvanngil to Botnar, and then Botnar to Þórsmörk.
Hvanngil – Emstrur/Botnar (11mi)
The next morning we left bright and early for Botnar. It was slightly raining with temperatures in the mid-40s. I thought this section of the hike was the least exciting, although there is a cold cold river crossing early on. Of the 3 river crossings, 2 are across bridges. You follow a vehicle road for a few miles (lame, I know) before splitting left back to the trail, and then joining the vehicle road again. This was the first time we used our GPS because we thought it was strange that we had to follow a vehicle road for so long.
Once you see the Botnar hut, look for “Canyon” signs pointing right. I -highly- recommend taking this detour. It was the highlight of this leg of the trip. The detour is maybe only 1.5-2 miles. There are cairns marking the way. The canyon is called the Markarfljótsgljúfur Canyon. There are a few different viewpoints marked by cairns, so be sure to explore them all. This is where the Double Rainbow picture was taken!
Once we arrived at the hut, we took a quick bathroom and food break. Did I mention that there were pretty much no trees so far? Finding a hidden pee spot is tricky for women. Don’t be shy, pop a squat.
Emstrur (Botnar) – Þórsmörk (10 mi)
After Botnar, the landscape becomes much more interesting. You will see an increase in vegetation and wildlife (bugs and birds). There’s some nice black sand to trek on for a bit as well. There are a few small hills here, but nothing too strenuous. Once you descend back into the valley, you will see a big river crossing. This river crossing is one that destroys cars, hikers’ backpacks, and dreams. We were lucky to cross on a day that wasn’t too bad. It was sunny after all.
After the river crossing, you will hike through denser shrubbery and trees. It felt like Northern California! It is only about 2 miles from the river to the Volcano Hut, a warm welcome (literally. they have an amazing sauna).
The Volcano Hut seems like a luxury camp you went to when you were a kiddo. They have every amenity you can wish for, including overly priced food. There are a few bus options when you get there, including the 8AM back to Reykjavik that we took back.
FAQs for the Laugavegur Trail
Am I fit enough to do this hike?
The Laugavegur Trail is an easy hike, fitness-wise. The weather is what makes this trek dangerous and possibly not even fun. It’s quite humbling and scary to see the memorials to deceased hikers along the way. If you have never hiked in pouring, sideways rain, I suggest you do it before flying to Iceland and planning a whole trip around a trek you might not even enjoy.
If you are a frequent White Mountain/Katahdin hiker, you will be more than fine. If you are not, I would recommend having at least one weather experienced hiker in your group
The biggest keys to enjoyment and safety are: knowledge prep, equipment prep, and cooling your ego. You will hear stories from hut wardens. Most of the deceased hikers ignored weather warnings and the hut warden’s warnings. Always have emergency weather gear in case it suddenly blizzards on you in the middle of July.
Is the Laugavegur Trail crowded?
The Laugavegur Trail is not very crowded once you pass Landmannalaugar. This is because the huts and tents are regulated in size, and you can’t fit any more people than that! Therefore many hikers won’t get past Landmannalaugar if they haven’t secured their accommodations in advance.
Can you hike Laugavegur alone?
You can absolutely hike Laugavegur alone, especially in peak tourist times like summer when there will be other hikers around. If you are hiking alone, make sure you carry GPS and safety information. I always carry a spot beacon when I’m hiking alone for emergencies.
What are the Laugavegur huts like?
The huts are great. Their kitchens were better stocked than my kitchen. Good knives, large crock pots, ample utensils. One of my biggest regrets was not bringing real food to cook with. Carrots, onions, apples, are some produce that would’ve held up.
Should I do this hike in 4 days, 3 days, 2 days, or 1 mega day?
I enjoy hiking long days. My ideal situation would’ve been to hike this in 2 days, and then spend an extra day at Thorsmork to explore the glacier, etc. I might go back to Iceland just to explore Thorsmork! If you are not cut on time, you can definitely do the traditional 4 days, although I would recommend bringing a book or a deck of cards for the huts.
What gear should I have? How do I know if my gear is good enough?
You absolutely should have waterproof and windproof gear to make your trek more comfortable. I thought my pants were waterproof, but they were not. I was cold and wet for a day. Luckily my rain jacket was great and my upper body was warm. Gloves are also helpful to keep you warm. I’m so happy I am now a proud owner of the Arc’teryx Beta Pant. They are much better at being rainproof!
To test your gear: stand in the shower. I’m serious.
What are the river crossings like?
Really cold. Needles to the legs cold. And dangerous depending on your luck. When we went, the water levels were fine. However we heard stories of tumbled hikers who dropped their packs in the river. Prepare for the worst, hope for the best. Most of the river crossings went about knee deep (I’m 5’5″).
You will be happy if you have a pair of water shoes to change in and out of. One person in our group didn’t, and his (amazing) partner had to traverse the freezing river three times to let him borrow some.
Want to see what it looks like? Check out my video here.
Have any more questions about hiking the Laugavegur Trail? Hit up the comment box below!
109 Comments
Hi Melissa! I really enjoyed reading your blog about the hike! My husband and I are planning on hiking the Laugavegur Trail and are currently in full planning mode. I’m 5’0 and am most concerned about the river crossings (and about being cold…). Do you have suggestions for shoes for the river crossings? I was thinking about getting Crocs Sexi Flip sandals that are lightweight and would strap to my feet. Any suggestions would be so greatly appreciated!! Thanks 🙂
Hi Tina! Sorry for the delay here. It was very cold indeed, but the crossings were bearable because they are short!
I ended up going with Chacos. Easy to slip in and out of them. Good grip!
Hi! I’m using your packing list (among other’s on the internet) to help me pack for my hike next month. Did you really only pack windpants for your bottoms or did you wear other shorts/pants?
Hi Savannah,
Yes I only brought a pair of windpants! I zipped them open when it got hot, but mostly they were fine. I never felt cold. Enjoy your trip!
Thanks for your recap of the hike – very helpful. Where did you rent a GPS for this hike?
Hi Jackie,
I went to Gangleri Outfitters in Reykjavik: https://outfitters.is/
The store is very small but they have a nice collection of rental gear.
Thanks! One more question – do their GPS units have trails/routes for something like Laugavegur already pre-programmed or is it necessary to enter waypoints yourself ahead of time?
The one we rented had everything already programmed in. The trail is pretty popular so I think they can help you out at the store if it’s not programmed in already!
Thank you! We’re going in a couple of weeks, so I think we will rent one just in case visibility is reduced while we’re on the trail and the markers are difficult to spot.
Hi Melissa!
Did the shop at Landmannalaugar accept Credit Card or did they only accept cash? Do you think it’s possible to not have any cash in Iceland?
Hi Stephanie!
I don’t remember but I would definitely recommend cash just in case. I think I took out around $80/day to be safe (Iceland is very expensive…)
Thanks for your help! Can’t wait to go and will definitely share my experience.
Love reading this post! We are hoping to return to Iceland next spring/summer to do this, how long in total did you stay in Iceland for this ? And did you have any issues booking the huts? (or how far in advance did you reserve?)
Thanks!!
Betty
Hi Betty,
I was in Iceland for 1 week total. In hindsight I would’ve liked to stay a few more days to do other activities like ice climbing.
We went at the end of August and had our huts reserved by April 15. I think the huts are generally in high demand so I would recommend booking asap!
Melissa,
Did you have pants that zipped into shorts for the water crossings? What would you recommend?
I had pants that rolled up above my knees. I would definitely recommend either that or zip offs!
I also had a small quick dry chamois towel to dry off after the water crossings.
Super useful write-up, I wish the official government website would point to your blogpost, thanks so much for taking the time to put this together!
Thank you Thomas! I’m glad you found it useful.
Hi! Your post was awesome! What time of year would you suggest going? I was panning on going early-mid September.
Thanks Alexis!
I would recommend going in August but early September should be fine. It’s still "warm" then for Iceland standards and you’ll have plenty of daylight!
Hi there! This was so helpful!
My boyfriend and I are prepping for our trip this coming summer and as of right now are planning to do the hike in 4 days, spend a day or two at Thorsmork, and then potentially do the other 1-2 day hike from Thorsmork to Skogar.
But, the only time we can go is from late June into early July. We’re hoping to be in Iceland for 2 weeks and have the middle 7-8 days be our trek. Do you think the weather in late June/early July would be worse than later in the summer? I know the average temperature will be lower, and we can handle rain, but will weather in late June be so much worse that it’s not even worth going?
Thanks!
Hi Vesta,
Thanks for reading!
There is likely to be more rain and wind, but the weather won’t be so terrible that it’s not worth going. The most important part is to be prepared with the right gear for rain and heavy wind: making sure you are properly layered, have extra layers, have good rain gear, and a GPS. I would also recommend having a buffer day in case the weather is so terrible that the hut wardens don’t recommend you go hiking at all that day. It’s better to prepare for the worst and hope that you won’t need to use your extra gear 🙂
Let me know how your trip goes, and happy hiking!
Would you consider this an "absolute must" hike? We continually are reading that the landscape has more variety in a short hike than many week-long hikes! Do you think a guide would be worthwhile on this hike?
Hi Darren,
I think so, yes! The landscape is continuously changing. On the first day, there were beautiful green/brown/white colors from the rhyolite canyons. By the end, we were hiking through what looked like black volcanic ash. The side canyon to Markarfljótsgljúfur Canyon is gorgeous and highly recommended.
If you have some experience hiking, I do not think you need a guide at all.
Going in August. Recommendation on where to stay when we get there before out trek? Any other reccomendations?
Hi Stephen,
We booked our shuttle first from Reykjavik to Landmannalaugar and then found an Airbnb near the Reykjavik pick up spot. We found it pretty difficult to find taxis while in Iceland, so it was nice to be within walking distance of the bus pick up.
Some people also stay at a hut in Landmannalaugar before they start hiking to enjoy the hot springs there. If you have time, I would recommend that.
Hi! I’m going early in August this year. I’m wondering if I need to reserve my bus to Landmannalaugur and my return bus from Thorsmork. Were the buses so packed that it required advance reservation? I was hoping to make my days flexible and avoid buying a bus ticket ahead of time. Thanks!
Hi Erin,
It was super packed when we went! Everything from the buses to huts were really full. There wasn’t much flexibility on our end sadly.
Have a great time in Iceland though. It’s amazing in August!
That’s a really fast pace, how heavy was your pack?
I think around 25 lbs. We stayed in huts so we didn’t have to pack tents.
Hi Melissa, thanks for your great post. We’re off to do this hike, with an extension, in two weeks and we really appreciated your gear list and trail/hut descriptions!
I’m glad it was helpful!
Hey, Melissa:
My friend and I are going to Iceland, and we’re having a little trouble figuring out the busing system. When you say that the bus for Landmannalaugar left at 8 am, does that mean there is only one per day? Also, what website did you use to purchase your ticket? Thanks!
There are a few companies who go out there but we used Reykjavik Excursions. We bought tickets at the BSI bus terminal when we first arrived but I think you can buy them online as well https://www.re.is/iceland-on-your-own/.
Another company is TREX: http://trex.is/landmannalaugar/
Hope this helps!
Melissa
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for the great run down! Just wondering what sort of "water shoes" did you use? Do you mean just a spare pair that can get wet or proper reef/wetsuit shoes?
Yep! Any spare pair of shoes that can get wet and hold your feet will do! (no flip flops). I used a pair of Chacos.
Would you recommend a GPS for this hike? Thanks!
We had one but never ended up using it. The trail can be a little difficult to spot with bad weather because visibility is low, but the trail itself is pretty well marked.
Great post. I’m planning to camp(fingers crossed) while walking this trail and have couple questions. Do the huts let the campers use their kitchen, shower and toilets(probably at some expense)? Do they take credit card or would it be wise to have enough cash with me?
Nice – have a great time!
My memory is that you can pay to use the kitchen and shower. You’ll have to bring cash.
The toilets are free for all 🙂
Toilets are included in camping fee, showers are extra and use of the kitchen is forbidden.
And credit card worked for all camping and restaurant fees!
Hi Melissa,
Great blog, thank you. I’m doing this trek starting on 8/16, and continuing on to Skogar as an extension.
What month/week did you do the trek? I’m hoping that 8/16 will not be too late on the trail as I’m trekking solo, and would like to be with other hikers along the way.
Stuart
Hi Stuart,
We went 1 week after you and saw plenty of people! The crowd dies off substantially 3 miles after starting at Landmannalaugar, but the huts were very full.
Have fun!!
Hi guys, just wanted to let everyone know that the Volcano Huts have opened up a restaurant at the Alftavatn Hut in the middle of the trail. It’s the second hut in a line of three huts on the actual trail.
There you can get breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks and drinks along with basic provisions for the trek ahead.
The Volcano Huts can also help with planning the trek and book your accommodation and transport to and from the trail.
Thanks for the info Bjarni!
This restaurant was brilliant as were the couple that were running it this season. However I wouldn’t rely on it for “basic provisions” as I’d define that. Candy bars, cake and homemade power bars were available. They also did a boxed lunch to go- we were on the trail for 9 days with tent and photography equipment so this was huge for us to shed weight from our packs. The area behind the lakes here deserves exploring also!
Hi Melissa, I am in iceland doing an artist residency and I have 5 days to fill in until my boyfriend gets here at the completion of my stay, I am planning on doing this trek as it looks amazing and I can both save some money and see the landscape. However do you think it would be safe to do this on my own? Does the weather get too hectic? I have all the equipment minus a GPS and trekking poles.. Thanks! 🙂
Liss
Hey there!
I heard the weather really depends. We had one day where it became very rainy with poor visibility. That day the trail was a bit harder to follow and we had to backtrack a little bit as a group. The other days were perfectly sunny.
Overall it wasn’t too bad to find the trail during poor weather but I liked having a GPS just in case. The route is easy to find online & plug into your GPS!
Hello!
Thanks for the great blog post! We are heading off to do this hike this coming Saturday. I have a question about the hut temperature. Should I bring my zero degree (F) sleeping bag? Or would the 40F sleeping bag be warm enough since we are sleeping in huts? How warm are the huts? I would love to lose the extra bulk and take the lighter bag, if possible. Thanks!
Hey Vashti,
The 40F sleeping bag is more than enough! The hut wardens make sure that all the huts are fully heated, and it actually gets pretty warm and dry in there from the heat and people. (Lotion will go a long way).
Have fun!
Hello,
I am doing this hike in a few days. I will arrive on the trail around 12:45, as your group did. Then we have booked a hut in Aftavatn. Do you think we will be able to reach the hut before dusk? I’m also going from the airport in Reykjavik, to a bus, to the start of the trail. So we are doing this hike right after taking a red eye.
Thank you!
Alyssa
Hi Alyssa,
It’s definitely doable! We arrived 2 hours before sunset on the same timetable as you.
You can always check your timing when you arrive at Hrafntinnusker. If you leave Hrafntinnusker by 4pm you should be there before sunset.
Hi Melissa, thanx for the blog, very usfeull informations 🙂
I’ve read one of the previous post saying sleeping area in huts was heated, do you think a 51-F59F sleeping bag is ok ?
Yes I think that’s ok! The huts are well heated. Have fun!
Thanks 🙂
Thank you thank you thank you for such a detailed report. Anything else you would have done differently if visiting again?
I would have stayed a bit longer in Thorsmork. I heard there are a lot of good hikes in the area!
Is it recommended that I book/reserve huts in advance? I’m not bringing a tent so the last thing I want is to get to the huts and the hut masters say that I had to book ahead of time. Killer review and thanks for taking the time to help everyone!
Yes I would definitely recommend it! The huts were almost all full when we went.
Wow – Great Info – I have one question…If you stop at the Thorsmork hut and take a bus back to Reykjavik does that make you miss the cat spine walk –which I think would be the next stop if you were travelling further to Skogar – I do not want to do the cat spine portion of the trail. Thanks! Karen
Hi Karen,
Yes you will skip it. The cat’s spine is on the section from Thorsmork to Skogar!
Hey Melissa. Can’t tell you how helpful this is! Thank you!
I’m going this late August and was able to reserve huts at Hrafntinnusker and Alftavatn but Emstrur was fully booked. Are there any alternatives to Emstrur or do I need to now bring a tent for that one night… 🙁
Thanks!
Dan
Hey Dan! Unfortunately your only options are to bring a tent or to have a long day and go directly to Thorsmork.
Have a great time!
Hey Melissa,
Using your guide to pack for an upcoming trip in August. I noticed you used a 70L pack. I have a 45-55L that I use for most trips, but I’ve never really done a thru hike of this many days. Do you think it’s too small? I’m a pretty light packer and my boyfriend will have a 60L pack, were staying in huts so we don’t need a tend or kitchen gear.
Hey Rachel! That should be fine, especially if you aren’t bringing cooking gear. My 70L pack had some empty space, so it definitely wasn’t the most efficient packing. I didn’t have another option at that time, which is why I brought the 70L.
Melissa,
My group of eight from the Arctic Brotherhood will be hitting the Laugavegur Trail in Mid-September and I have been doing my research. Your blog/website is the best overall resource I have found. Thanks some much for putting together such detail and sharing it. – Don
Hi Melissa,
Thanks for your helpful blog. Do you remember having to wait for the cooking facilities in the huts? We were wondering if we should bring our own camping stove and gear in case the kitchen was crowded.
Thanks, Susan
Hi Susan, we didn’t have to wait but we were one of the earlier groups to arrive! If your hiking speed is average you might have to wait for a group or two.
This was by far the most useful article I have read so far. Thank you so so so much for all of this valuable information! Going in August!
Thanks Chantel. Have a great time!
Thanks for such a helpful post! I’m going August 7th (ish) and I’m doing it solo! Having this info is super reassuring!
Do you know if there were busses to Skógar from Porsmork?
Thanks! Unfortunately I remember transportation between Skogar and Thorsmork to be pretty difficult. I would try emailing the bus companies to see if they have special summer routes that would take you there.
Thank you for this! I am doing this hike solo. I plan on getting to Iceland on the 30th and leaving Iceland on the 8th. Any specific suggestions on emergency equipment?
I have a Spot 3 (https://amzn.to/2MrD6Ps) that i love for emergencies! It’s super light and works great. A GPS is always nice but probably optional – the trails are pretty well marked and you will have some foot traffic in the summer.
Hi Melissa,
Do you remember if the huts had wifi or outlets for charging?
Thanks, Susan
No on wifi and I think no outlets too (although I heard some have a "pay to charge" option now)
Just got back: FYI Volcano Huts have plenty of charging but before that it is 1000K to charge a phone- nothing else- and only IF power is available.
Thank you David for these updated insights!!
Hi Melissa,
Great blog of your journey. Really enjoyed reading about it. It seems that compared to the traditional 4 day trek recommendation route, you were able to cover quite a bit more distance each day that in hindsight maybe this trip could have been compressed to 3 days even? Like yourself, I enjoy long hike days. I’d rather be out and about than playing cards in a hut or reading a book to kill time.
In your opinion, if route was compressed a bit for longer days, would it take away from just enjoying the trails by rushing to make a distance target? If I add up your times, you cover quite a bit of distance in short amount of time over the trek with what seems to be alot of time still in the day.
Hey Donny!
I feel like we hiked at a pretty normal pace (our group is semi-athletic but not elite hikers by any means). We were never rushing or fast walking. I think we were able to cover a good amount of distance because there isn’t too much elevation. Also I think recommended routes are generally very cautious/risk averse because readers can range from super marathon athletes to folks who maybe are hiking for the first time.
Let me know if you have any more questions!
Love your description, very helpful. I am doing this walk in a month. One thing no one seems to mention is “wee stops”. I know there are toilets at the huts but are there actual toilets along the way or is this really a squat in the open kind of place. There don’t seem to be many trees.
Thanks for the feedback! I’ll add this to my write up.
There are no good ‘bathroom’ stops unfortunately and yes there are no trees. When I had to go on the trail, I had a friend stand a bit away and went quickly 🙂
Thanks so much for the information. I was going to book four huts along the way, but now I realize I only need two as I want to hike all day, not hang out in huts.
Hi Melissa! I’ll mirror the sentiment in thanks for the detailed post! I can’t tell you how many times I’ve read through your post in my short prep time for my upcoming trip. Can you provide more details on the gloves you wore for the trip? I have some lightweight grippy gloves which I like to wear in okay weather but I could use some better weatherproof gloves…or mitts? I leave on Tuesday and plan the same three-day agenda you followed; I guess that puts me in the "last minute shopping" group, now 🙂
My gloves are lightweight as well – more for wind than insulation. I wish I had some thicker gloves because it definitely got cold once it started raining & the group was soaked
Hey Melissa! Loved your report–super helpful. So my wife and are thinking of doing this next year and would love to hear your comment on this itinerary, which I based on your hike:
Day 1: Landmannalaugar (day hike and rest from the flight)
Day 2: Landmannalaugar – Álftavatn (24 km)
Day 3: Álftavatn – Botnar (18 km)
Day 4: Botnar – Þórsmörk (15 km)
Day 5: Þórsmörk (day hike)
Although we are in our 50s and not fast hikers, we just finished the TMB over 8 hiking days where we had a couple of 20+ km days with steep ascents, so we are not averse to doing long hiking days. What bothers us is harsh weather! Of course, our packs on the TMB were only 7-8 kgs since we did not have to carry food or shelter. Do you think it’s worth spending the first (half) day in Landmannalaugar? If you hiked it again, would you add the Þórsmörk to Skógar (24 km) as a final day?
This sounds great!
I did wish I spent a half day when we first arrived. There were a lot of people in the hot springs and it looked like a good time.
And yes I really wanted to expect from Thorsmork originally but we didn’t have enough time in our vacation to do the last leg. Would recommend it!
Can you use the bathrooms at the huts if you’re camping?
Sorry I missed this, but yes you can
Hey Melissa ! Do thwy sell food at the huts !?
Not until you can Thorsmork
Oops get to Thorsmork**
A
Sorry! Alftavatn now has a small restaurant that serves limited meals. In it you can buy a small number of items- homemade bars, cake, packable lunch (with fruit!). It’s expensive but a good trade off for those who can’t/won’t Carey the calories. We were out for 10 days (hiking at night actually) with camera gear so this was a terrific option.
Just FYI, this blog and its comments were easily among the best sources of info so trying to pay it forward with more info!
Thanks for the information David!
Hi Melissa. Thanks for load of info to plan our trekking vacation this summer. We’ll likely book the huts vs. camping in tents. I’m curious, is there a queue to use the shower or bathroom at the hut and how do one change into new clothes when there is no privacy?
Thanks!
Gina
There was never a bad line for the shower or bathrooms when we went. There isn’t too much privacy inside the hut though. We mostly changed inside our sleeping bags or in the corner of a room. Have fun!
Hey, thanks for this whole article it’s very enlightening. I’m planning a trip on a shoestring budget and was curious if camping was free or had a small fee relative to the huts. I was under the impression the whole country supported free camping. Thanks.
Hi. Would I look out of place if I brought a camp stool since there will be no comfortable places sit? Ie. Changing shoes to cross the river or having my lunch?
It’d be fine if you wanted to do that! I would just think about the trade offs of having extra weight in your pack.
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Thank you for your insight! Much appreciated, as I’m getting prepped for this trip with 4 other fellow friends. Question, you stated to have an emergency blanket – did you use the cheap disposable type? Or would a disposable emergency bivy work?
I brought the SOL Emergency Blanket!
Hi enjoyed your blog about the laugavegur trail a group is thinking of going this sept with a guide, it will be a 4 day trip. We are thinking of adding on to the tour the Fimmvorouhals trail at the end do you have any experience with that?
Hi Susan, we didn’t have time for Fimmvorouhals unfortunately but I’ve heard great things!! I would recommend it if you are able to fit that into your trip.
Can you say more about what you did for food you packed? Was it all in factory sealed packaging or did you bag it yourself? I’m finding conflicting information about what I can bring into the country but would prefer to pack homemade dehydrated food if possible.
We brought factory sealing packaging so I cant comment on bringing homemade dehydrated food unfortunately